Ethan Stowell’s New Italian Kitchen: Bold Cooking from Seattle’s Anchovies & Olives, How to Cook a Wolf, Staple & Fancy Mercantile, and Tavolata [A Cookbook]
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Welcome to Ethan Stowell’s New Italian Kitchen–not so much a place as a philosophy. Here food isn’t formal or fussy, just focused, with recipes that honor Italian tradition while celebrating the best ingredients the Pacific Northwest has to offer. We’re talking about a generous bowl of steaming handmade pasta–served with two forks for you and a friend. Or perhaps an impeccably fresh crudo, crunchy cucumber and tangy radish accenting impossibly sweet spot prawns. Next up are the jewel tones of a beet salad with lush, homemade ricotta, or maybe a tangle of white beans and clams spiked with Goat Horn pepper–finished off with a whole roasted fish that begs to be sucked off the bones. Oh, some cheese, a gooseberry compote complementing your Robiola, or the bittersweet surprise of Campari sorbet. This layered approach is a hallmark of Ethan’s restaurants, and in his New Italian Kitchen, he offers home cooks a tantalizing roadmap for re-creating this style of eating. Prepare a feast simply by combining the lighter dishes found in “Nibbles and Bits”—from Sardine Crudo with Celery Hearts, Pine Nuts, and Lemon to Crispy Young Favas with Green Garlic Mayonnaise—or adding recipes with complex flavors for a more sophisticated meal. Try the luscious Corn and Chanterelle Soup from “The Measure of a Cook;” or the Cavatelli with Cuttlefish, Spring Onion, and Lemon from “Wheat’s Highest Calling.” Up the ante with a stunning Duck Leg Farrotto with Pearl Onions and Bloomsdale Spinach from “Starches to Grow On,” or choose one of the “Beasties of the Land,” like Skillet-Roasted Rabbit with Pancetta-Basted Fingerlings. Each combination will nudge you and your guests in new, unexpected, and unforgettable directions. Every page of Ethan Stowell’s New Italian Kitchen captures the enthusiasm, humor, and imagination that make cooking one of life’s best and most satisfying adventures. It’s got to be good–but it’s also got to be fun.
Additional information
Weight | 1.15316 kg |
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Dimensions | 2.159 × 23.5458 × 26.035 cm |
by | |
Format | Hardback |
Language | |
Pages | 240 |
Publisher | |
Year Published | 2010-9-21 |
Imprint | |
Publication City/Country | USA |
ISBN 10 | 158008818X |
About The Author | ETHAN STOWELL was named one of the 2008 Best New Chefs in America by Food & Wine magazine and is a multiple James Beard Award nominee for Best Chef Northwest. Ethan is the chef/owner of four celebrated Seattle restaurants that have achieved national acclaim with rave reviews from GQ, Wine Spectator, Gourmet, and Bon Appétit, among others. In 2010, Ethan launched Lagana Foods, a line of artisan pastas. Ethan lives in Ballard, his favorite neighborhood in Seattle, with his wife, Angela. LESLIE MILLER's writing has appeared in a dozen anthologies, plus periodicals including NW Palate and TimeOut New York. The co-author of four other books, she is also the editor of Women Who Eat: A New Generation on the Glory of Food. Leslie is partner in the Seattle writing and editing firm Girl Friday Productions. |
“When acclaimed Seattle chef Ethan Stowell set out to write a cookbook, his goal was to create one that inspires home cooks but doesn't take itself too seriously — a tall order for any chef-driven book. But "Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen" achieves all that and more, showcasing the refined but unfussy Italian-meets-Pacific Northwest dishes that earned Stowell multiple James Beard Award nominations.”—Portland Oregonian, Best of 2010, 12/21/10“Ethan Stowell is to Italian food what David Chang is to Asian food, not a purist but a flavor junkie and a stickler for quality. Both make big bold food and manage to coax the most flavor out of everything they make. They seduce you with texture and intensity. They are not about authenticity, but about creating fantastic food. Hallelujah!”—Cooking with Amy, Top Cookbooks 2010, 12/18/10“Baked Stellar Bay Kusshi oysters with garlic breadcrumbs, cannelloni with braised pork cheeks and sweet cicely, zatar-rubbed leg of goat with fresh chickpeas and sorrel — this is the gutsy Northwestern spin that Seattle chef Ethan Stowell puts on Italian cuisine. Big flavors, local ingredients and compelling flavor combinations are the hallmarks of his recipes.”—L.A. Times, 12/9/10“The celebrated Seattle chef offers his brash take on nose-to-tail Italian. Party tripe on soft polenta for everyone!” —The New York Times Book Review, Web Extra: 25 More Cookbooks, 12/3/10“Crazy for the soft-boiled eggs with anchovy mayo at How to Cook a Wolf on Queen Anne? (I am!) You'll find the recipe here. Ever wonder how to clean a geoduck? (I have.) Chef Ethan Stowell provides the pictorial process, and a recipe for geoduck crudo — just like they serve at his Capitol Hill comer Anchovies & Olives. And of course, there's a whole chapter on pasta, fresh and dried (the star of the show at Tavolata in Belltown).”—Seattle Times, 12/2/10“Above the rank and file of Italian cookbooks.”—StarChefs.com, Top 10 Cookbooks 2010: Honorable Mention, November 2010"The perfect homage to traditional Italian cooking – but sexier! Dive into this one; New Italian Kitchen is fun, delicious and guaranteed to get the creative kitchen juices flowing!"—Guest blogger Kathy Casey, Al Dente, Amazon food blog, 11/15/10The title's "new" claim is apt; this is no red-sauce cookbook. The proprietor of three popular, ingredient-driven, Italian-inspired Seattle restaurants presents a collection of recipes rich with flavor and often featuring intriguing taste combinations. Cavatelli with cuttlefish, spring onion, and lemon has a hit of spice from chili flakes, and a roast quail is stuffed with pancetta, lacinato kale, and sage. As with any good chef-written book, readers will find gems of kitchen wisdom–like which parts of watercress to use in a salad and how to prepare beef to make carne cruda with the perfect texture–casually sprinkled throughout. A humorous chapter on cheese and desserts includes such intriguing presentations as La Tur with oven-roasted tomato; lemon verbena panna cotta with poached peaches; and roasted figs with chocolate-espresso ganache. Like the other recipes in the book, these showcase fresh ingredients and have a decidedly modern feel. (Oct.) —Publishers Weekly, 9/6/10"Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen is not only a great collection of accessible recipes that compel one to start cooking right away, and it also reveals a chef with soul. This book perfectly captures the spirit of Ethan and his team, their soulful, delicious food, and the vitality of their restaurants in the great city of Seattle."—David Kinch, James Beard Award–winning chef and owner of Manresa “Ethan is a true chef’s chef. He has a great respect for the seasons, the farms, and the fishermen who supply him, which is reflected in his restaurants and in the dishes he prepares.”—David Pasternack, chef-owner of Esca and author of The Young Man and the Sea: Recipes and Crispy Fish Tales from Esca “Ethan Stowell is a northwestern jewel is every epicurean sense of the word. His influence on the Seattle food scene is unmistakable, and his personal take on Italian food is at once sophisticated yet simple and understated–a delectable combination. I appreciate Ethan’s intrinsic wine savvy; his food seamlessly matches at the table, creating memorable and delicious pairings.”—Evan Goldstein, author of Perfect Pairings and Daring Pairings “Ethan’s passion for fresh and delicious food has been a staple at his restaurants for years, and the craftsmanship in his dishes is a testament to his drive for serving soulfully inspired foods. Now the world can take a glimpse into the mind and recipes that have set Ethan apart from the rest.”—Chris Cosentino, executive chef of Incanto |
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Table Of Content | ix Acknowledgments1 Introduction3 A Note on Ingredients Nibbles and Bits 8 Baked Stellar Bay Kusshi Oysters with Garlic Breadcrumbs and Oregano10 Bruschetta with Smashed Chickpeas and Grilled Lamb’s Tongue11 Crispy Young Favas with Green Garlic Mayonnaise13 Beef Carpaccio with Preserved Pecorino Sardoand Arugula14 Carne Cruda with Anchovy and Garlic18 Fried Artichokes Pangratatto21 Fried Ipswich Clams with Sorrel Aioli 23 Fun with Geoduck24 Geoduck Crudo with Fennel and Radish 24 Geoduck Scramble with Crème Fraîche25 Manila Clams on the Half Shell with Fennel,Lemon, and Chiles 26 Sardine Crudo with Celery Hearts, Pine Nuts,and Lemon28 Marinated Octopus 29 Pickled Vegetables31 Sea Bass Crudo with Vanilla Oil, English Peas,and Mint 32 Soft-Shell Crab Bruschetta with Spring Garlic Aioli32 Spot Prawn Crudo with Chile and Mint34 Frittata with Morels and Savory35 Bruschetta with Fresh Ricotta and Pine NutSalsa Verde37 Soft-Boiled Eggs with Anchovy Mayonnaise38 Shigoku Oysters on the Half Shell withAccompaniments 39 Uni Spoons The Measure of a Cook: Soups 42 Soups with Artichokes42 Essence of Artichoke Soup42 Farro and Artichoke Soup44 Mediterranean Mussel and Chickpea Soup withFennel and Lemon46 Clam Brodetto47 Parmesan Brodo 48 Oxtail Soup with Farro and Root Vegetables51 Farmers’ Market Soup52 English Pea Soup with Poached Duck Egg53 Kabocha and Porcini Soup54 Corn and Chanterelle Soup56 Heirloom Tomato Soup with Garlic Croutons57 Sorrel and Yogurt Soup Starches to Grow On: Gnocchi, Polenta, Risotto, and Farrotto 60 Basic Potato Gnocchi63 Gnocchi with Morels and Fried Duck Egg64 Ricotta Gnocchi with Beef Short Rib Ragu66 Polenta Master Recipes66 Soft Polenta66 Firm Polenta68 Sautéed Chicken Livers with Mushrooms andOnions on Soft Polenta69 Grilled Polenta with Heirloom Tomatoes andPounded Anchovy Sauce70 Sautéed Polenta with Hedgehog Mushroomsand Aged Provolone71 A Trio of Spring Risottos 71 Spring Garlic Risotto72 Ramp Risotto with Shaved Porcini73 Artichoke Risotto74 Clam Risotto with Lemon76 Butternut Squash Risotto with Hazelnut Oil77 Farrotto with English Peas and Morels79 Duck Leg Farrotto with Pearl Onions andBloomsdale Spinach Wheat’s Highest Calling: Pasta 84 Pasta Master Recipes84 Egg Pasta84 Semolina Pasta89 Braised Rabbit Paws with Radiatore90 Linguine with Shrimp91 Cavatelli with Cuttlefish, Spring Onion, and Lemon 92 Fava Bean Agnolotti with Snails and Herbed Butter95 Gnocchetti with Pancetta, Chanterelles, and Mint96 Tagliarini with Totten Virginica Oysters, Prosecco,Chives, and Cream 97 Maloreddus with Squid, Tomato Sauce, and Lemon98 Spaghetti with Garlic, Chile, and Sea Urchin100 Trofie with Nettle Pesto102 Pappardelle with Tomato Sauce and MarinatedPecorino Sardo103 Bigoli with Grilled Sardines and Fennel104 Duck Egg Ravioli with Ricotta and Swiss Chard105 Switch-Hitting Clams with Ramps106 Cannelloni with Braised Pork Cheeks andSweet Cicely Something Foraged, Something Green: Salads, Vegetables, and Sides 110 Baby Beet Salad with Fresh Ricotta111 Endive Salad with Creamy Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette 112 Seared Rabbit Loin with Frisée and Pancetta115 Lentils with Pancetta116 Fried Cauliflower with Ham Hock119 Lobster Mushrooms with Preserved Garlic, Parsley, and Oregano120 Miner’s Lettuce, Fava Beans, English Peas, and Spring Garlic with White Balsamic Vinaigrette121 Shaved Artichoke and Wild Watercress Salad122 Blood Orange Salad with Shallot andTaggiasca Olives 125 Rapini with Garlic, Chile, and Lemon126 Delicata Squash with Chestnut Honey127 Puntarelle with Anchovy, Garlic, and Parsley Dressing128 Pickled Mackerel Salad with Watercress, Radish,and Pistachio131 Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Artichokes with Garlic and Thyme 132 Company Alligator Pear 135 Panzanella with Crispy Pig’s Ear137 Potato and Asparagus Salad with Home-Cured Bacon and Egg138 Thumbelina Carrots with Orange and Mint140 Pheromone Salad (Shaved Porcini Salad)141 Swiss Chard with Pine Nuts and Golden Raisins Beasties of the Land . . . 144 Braised Pork Jowls with the Maligned Mélange 146 Home-Cured Bacon148 Lamb Chops with Finger Favas149 Venison Loin with Cipollini Agrodolce150 Veal Sweetbreads with Parsley, Capers, and Lemon152 Seared Duck Breast with Sugared Figs and Arugula153 Braised Veal Cheeks with Grilled Ramps and Porcini155 Skillet-Roasted Rabbit with Pancetta-Basted Fingerlings156 Roast Quail Stuffed with Pancetta, Lacinato Kale, and Sage158 Pan-Roasted Squab with Spring Garlic Compote159 Party Meats159 Party Tripe on Soft Polenta160 Zatar-Rubbed Leg of Goat with Fresh Chickpeas, Spring Onion, and Sorrel162 Grilled T-Bone with Garlic, Lemon, and Controne Beans163 Italian “Tacos” . . . and Sea 167 Grilled Sardines with Baby Fennel, Capers, and Taggiasca Olives168 Mob-Hit Squid170 Fluke with Radish and Citrus Relish 171 Ode to the Northwest (with a Nod to Cincinnati)172 Roasted Skate Wing with Brown Butter and Potatoes 174 Black Bass with Thyme, Lemon, and Garlic175 Poached Black Bass with Spring Garlic and Mint 177 Seared Scallops with Chanterelles and Parsnip and Pear Purée178 Steamed Clams with Guanciale and Sorrel 179 Prosciutto-Wrapped Soft-Shell Crab Cigars with Shaved Radish and Arugula Salad 181 Grilled Mackerel with Crispy Potatoes and Caperand Preserved Lemon Sauce Cheese for the Civilized and Desserts for the Rest of You 184 Goat Cheese with Chestnut Honey andHazelnut Dust 185 Ginepro with Gin-Soaked Pear 186 La Tur with Oven-Roasted Tomato Petals 189 Lemon Verbena Panna Cotta with Poached Peaches190 Robiola with Gooseberry Compote 191 Cacio Faenum with Baked Apricot and Almond Purée 192 Rhubarb Soup with Prosecco193 Roasted Figs with Chocolate-Espresso Ganache 194 Chocolate Ice Cream195 Toasted Walnut Ice Cream196 Pear–Star Anise Ice Cream197 Melon Sorbet199 Campari–Blood Orange Sorbet200 Blueberry-Basil Sorbet201 Espresso Granita with Grappa Cream202 Zabaglione with Mixed Berries203 Cardamom Sablés 204 Pie Cookies205 Pine Nut Crumbles206 Almond Cake with Bay-Poached Queen Anne Cherries208 Chocolate Pumpkin Tart Building Blocks: Condiments, Sauces, and Staples 216 Basic Tomato Sauce217 Mayonnaise217 Preserved Garlic218 Preserved Lemons218 Preserved Pecorino Sardo219 Salsa Verde220 Garlic Breadcrumbs220 Basic Chickpeas |
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