Vegetable Literacy: Cooking and Gardening with Twelve Families from the Edible Plant Kingdom, with over 300 Deliciously Simple Recipes [A Cookbook]

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Description

In her latest cookbook, Deborah Madison, America’s leading authority on vegetarian cooking and author of Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, reveals the surprising relationships between vegetables, edible flowers, and herbs within the same botanical families, and how understanding these connections can help home cooks see everyday vegetables in new light. For over three decades, Deborah Madison has been at the vanguard of the vegetarian cooking movement, authoring classic books on the subject and emboldening millions of readers to cook simple, elegant, plant-based food.This groundbreaking new cookbook is Madison’s crowning achievement: a celebration of the diversity of the plant kingdom, and an exploration of the fascinating relationships between vegetables, edible flowers, herbs, and familiar wild plants within the same botanical families. Destined to become the new standard reference for cooking vegetables, Vegetable Literacy shows cooks that, because of their shared characteristics, vegetables within the same family can be used interchangeably in cooking. It presents an entirely new way of looking at vegetables, drawing on Madison’s deep knowledge of cooking, gardening, and botany. For example, knowing that dill, chervil, cumin, parsley, coriander, anise, lovage, and caraway come from the umbellifer family makes it clear why they’re such good matches for carrots, also a member of that family. With more than 300 classic and exquisitely simple recipes, Madison brings this wealth of information together in dishes that highlight a world of complementary flavors. Griddled Artichokes with Tarragon Mayonnaise, Tomato Soup and Cilantro with Black Quinoa, Tuscan Kale Salad with Slivered Brussels Sprouts and Sesame Dressing, Kohlrabi Slaw with Frizzy Mustard Greens, and Fresh Peas with Sage on Baked Ricotta showcase combinations that are simultaneously familiar and revelatory.Inspiring improvisation in the kitchen and curiosity in the garden, Vegetable Literacy—an unparalleled look at culinary vegetables and plants—will forever change the way we eat and cook.

Additional information

Weight 1.13 kg
Dimensions 3.38 × 23.86 × 26.17 cm
PubliCanadation City/Country

USA

by

Format

Hardback

Language

Pages

416

Publisher

Year Published

2013-3-12

Imprint

ISBN 10

1607741911

About The Author

DEBORAH MADISON is the author of eleven cookbooks and is well known for her simple, seasonal, vegetable-based cooking. She got her start in the San Francisco Bay Area at Chez Panisse before opening Greens, and has lived in New Mexico for the last twenty years. In addition to writing and teaching, she has served on the boards of Slow Food International Biodiversiy Committee, the Seed Savers Exchange, and the Southwest Grassfed Livestock Alliance, among others. She is actively involved in issues of biodiversity, gardening, and sustainable agriculture.

“I have always marveled at Deborah Madison’s deep knowledge of vegetables and her original creations, which taste just as delicious as they sound. Vegetable Literacy is her latest tour de force, a massive well of knowledge that makes you want to read and learn as well as cook. A fine achievement and a real inspiration for me.” —Yotam Ottolenghi, author of Plenty and Jerusalem   “I have long been a fan of both Deborah’s vibrant food and her many thorough, thoughtful cookbooks. In Vegetable Literacy she offers, with abundant warmth and generosity, observations from years of garden-to-table cooking. Filled with fascinating botanical notes and inspired recipes that really explore vegetables from the ground up—it is a pleasure to read. The writing is beautiful and the lessons are astutely down to earth.”—David Tanis, author of Heart of the Artichoke and Other Kitchen Journeys   “Deborah Madison has taken vegetables to a whole new level. You’ll want to know what she knows—about botany, family pairings, and companion flavors on the plate. In cooking, Madison excels, but she’s also a natural with observation in the garden. Her passion is palpable, her scholarship tops, and her prose exquisite.”—Amy P. Goldman, PhD, author of The Heirloom Tomato: From Garden to Table   “The are few people equipped with the curiosity, skill, and eye for observation required to construct a volume of this size and scope—and Deborah does it masterfully. Vegetable Literacy will shift the way both home and professional cooks think about the relationship between ingredients, and vegetables in particular. Using this book has felt like a missing puzzle piece snapping into place—inspiring, intimate, informative, and beautifully illustrated.”—Heidi Swanson, author of Super Natural Every Day   “For those of us who love vegetables, Deborah Madison gives not only practical tips for buying them, but also a bounty of diverse recipes. This is a monumental cookbook from a gifted writer and one of the best cooks of our time.” —David Lebovitz, author of Ready for Dessert and The Sweet Life in Paris   “In Vegetable Literacy, Deborah Madison elegantly folds together a joy of gardening, a fascination for botanical kinship, and an expansive knowledge of fine and simple cooking. This book is a nutrient-dense treasure.” —Wendy Johnson, author of Gardening at Dragon’s Gate: a Work in the Wild and Cultivated World   “In her most exciting and innovative book to date, Deborah Madison shows us how the botany in our gardens can inform and guide our preparation and cooking of meals that will both delight and nourish us all. Come directly from the garden to the kitchen with Deborah, and you will never observe or use vegetables in an uninspired way again. This book feeds our imaginations and souls with more insights per page than any cookbook I know.” —Gary Paul Nabhan, ethnobotanist and author of Coming Home to Eat and Desert Terroir

Table Of Content

Introduction ~ 1  •  A Few Notes about Ingredients ~ 5     chapter one ~ The Carrot Family: Some Basic Kitchen Vegetables and a Passel of Herbs (Umbelliferae or Apiaceae) ~ 9   chapter two ~ The Mint Family: Square Stems and Fragrant Leaves (Labiatae or Lamiaceae) ~ 45   chapter three ~ The Sunflower Family: Some Rough Stuff from Out of Doors (Compositae or Asteraceae) ~ 59   chapter four ~ The Knotweed Family: Three Strong Personalities (Polygonaceae) ~ 103   chapter five ~ The Cabbage Family: The Sometimes Difficult Crucifers (Brassicaceae or Cruciferae) ~ 117   chapter six ~ The Nightshade Family: The Sun Lovers (Solanaceae) ~ 173   chapter seven ~ The Goosefoot and Amaranth Families: Edible Weeds, Leaves, and Seeds (Amaranthaceae and Chenopodiaceae) ~ 215   chapter eight ~ The (Former) Lily Family: Onions and Asparagus (Liliaceae) ~ 243   chapter nine ~ The Cucurbit Family: The Sensual Squashes, Melons, and Gourds (Cucurbitaceae) ~ 277   chapter ten ~ The Grass Family: Grains and Cereals (Poaceae, formerly Gramineae) ~ 299   chapter eleven ~ The Legume Family: Peas and Beans (Leguminosae or Fabaceae) ~ 333   chapter twelve ~ The Morning Glory Family: The Sweet Potato (Convolvulaceae) ~ 385     Acknowledgments ~ 391  •  Sources ~ 393  •  Bibliography ~ 395  •  Index ~ 396   recipes   chapter one The Carrot Family               Chilled Spicy Carrot Soup with Yogurt Sauce             Carrot Soup with Tangled Collard Greens in Coconut Butter and Dukkah             Ivory Carrot Soup with a Fine Dice of Orange Carrots             Carrot Almond Cake with Ricotta Cream             Yellow Carrots with Coconut Butter and Lime             Winter Carrots with Caraway Seeds, Garlic, and Parsley               Salsa Verde with Chinese Celery             Celery Leaf and Vegetable Potage             Celery Salad with Spring’s First Herbs and Mâche             Meyer Lemon and Shallot Vinaigrette             Celery Salad with Pears, Endive, Blue Cheese, and Walnuts               Celery Root Soup with Walnut-Celery “Salad”            Celery Root and Hash Brown Cake             Celery Root Mash Flecked with Celery Leaves             Fennel Stock             Braised Fennel Wedges with Saffron and Tomato               Shaved Fennel Salad with Celery and Finely Diced Egg             Fennel Tea               Parsnip and Carrot Puree             Parsnip-Cardamom Custard             Roasted Parsnips with Horseradish Cream               Rhubarb with Angelica Leaves             Anise Shortbreads with Orange Flower Water             Caraway Seed Cake             Chervil-Chive Butter             Cilantro Salsa with Basil and Mint             Dukkah (Toasted Nuts and Seeds with Cumin)             Dill-Flecked Yogurt Sauce             Parsley Sauce             Braised Parsley Root   chapter two The Mint Family               Anise Hyssop Tea             Lemon Basil–Mint Lemonade             Basil Puree             Thick Marjoram Sauce with Capers and Green Olives             Orange and Rosemary Compote             Butter Seasoned with Rosemary, Sage, and Juniper               Sage Tea             Sage and Fennel Tea with Fresh Mint             Sage Bread Crumbs             Chia Water             Ground Chia for Cereals             Lemon Thyme Tea             Lavender Syrup             White Nectarines in Lavender Syrup   chapter three The Sunflower Family               Sunchoke Bisque with Pumpkin Seed Oil and Sunflower Sprouts             Sautéed Jerusalem Artichokes with Rosemary and Smoked Salt             Braised Jerusalem Artichokes with Mushrooms and Tarragon             Creamy Cardoon Soup with Thyme             Cardoon Risotto             Cardoon Risotto Cakes from Leftover Risotto               Steamed Whole Artichokes             A Crispy Artichoke Sauté             Roasted Artichokes             Griddled or Grilled Artichoke Wedges             Braised Baby Artichokes with Tarragon Mayonnaise             Artichokes with Walnut Tarator Sauce             Fall Artichokes, Potatoes, and Garlic Baked in Clay             A Cheerful Winter Salad of Red Endive, Avocado, Arugula, and Broccoli Sprouts             Shredded Radicchio with Walnut Vinaigrette, Hard-Cooked Egg, and Toasted                      Bread Crumbs             Walnut-Shallot Vinaigrette             Radicchio, Escarole, and Red Mustard with Golden Beets and Avocado             Grilled or Griddled Radicchio with Gorgonzola and Walnuts             Griddled Endive             Braised Endive with Gorgonzola             Treviso Radicchio Gratin             Escarole and Butter Lettuce Salad with Hazelnuts and Persimmons             Sunflower and Frisée Salad             Bitter Greens with Walnut Oil and Mustard Vinaigrette             Escarole, Green Garlic, and Artichoke Stem Tart in Yeasted Crust             Escarole and Potato Hash             Limestone Lettuce Salad with Creamy Herb Dressing             Romaine Salad with Avocado-Sesame and Shiso (Perilla) Vinaigrette             Chiffonade of Butter Lettuce with Parsley and Green Zebra Tomatoes             Butter or Looseleaf Lettuce Salad with Tomato            Salsify, Jerusalem Artichoke, and Burdock Soup with Truffle Salt             Sautéed Salsify with Hazelnuts            Tarragon Mayonnaise with Orange Zest             Egg Salad with Tarragon, Parsley, and Chives     chapter four The Knotweed Family               Sorrel Sauce with Yogurt             Sorrel Sauce with Watercress, Parsley, and Chives             Creamy Sorrel Sauce             Red Rhubarb–Berry Ice Cream             Rhubarb, Apple, and Berry Pandowdy             Rhubarb-Raspberry Compote               Yeasted Buckwheat Waffles             Buckwheat Noodles with Kale and Sesame Salad             Buckwheat–Five Spice Free-Form Apple Tart             Multicolored Carrot Salad with Rau Ram, Mint, and Thai Basil   chapter five The Cabbage Family               Braised Summer Cabbage             Wilted Red Cabbage with Mint and Goat Feta             Braised Cabbage with Chewy Fried Potatoes, Feta, and Dill             Savoy Cabbage on Toast             Cabbage Panade               Collard Greens Soup with Sweet Potatoes and Crumbled Coconut Butter             Tangled Collard Greens with Sesame             Long-Cooked Collards with Chiltepins, Spices, and Coconut Butter               Sautéed Mustard Greens with Garlic and Peanuts             Elissa’s Mustard Green Dumplings with Sweet and Spicy Dipping Sauce             Mustard Butter with Lemon Zest and Shallot             Mustard-Caper Vinaigrette             Mustard-Cream Vinaigrette               Kale with Smoked Salt and Goat Cheese             Kale and Potato Mash with Romesco Sauce             Smoky Kale and Potato Cakes             Shredded Purple Kale, Sun Gold Tomatoes, Feta, and Mint             Tuscan Kale with Anchovy-Garlic Dressing             Kale Salad with Slivered Brussels Sprouts and Sesame Dressing             Kale Pesto with Dried Mushrooms and Rosemary               Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Mustard-Cream Vinaigrette             Brussels Sprouts with Caraway Seeds and Mustard             Slivered Brussels Sprouts Roasted with Shallots             Cauliflower Salad with Goat Havarti, Caraway, and Mustard-Caper Vinaigrette             Cauliflower Soup with Coconut, Turmeric, and Lime             Cauliflower with Saffron, Pepper Flakes, Plenty of Parsley, and Pasta               Broccoli and Green Zebra Tomato Salad             Steamed Broccoli with Mustard Butter, Pine Nuts, and Roasted Pepper             Broccoli Romanseco with Black Rice and Green Herb Sauce             Broccoli Bites with Curried Mayonnaise               Thinly Sliced Scarlet Salad Turnips with Sea Salt and Black Sesame Seeds             Golden Turnip Soup with Gorgonzola Toasts             Gorgonzola Butter             Turnips with White Miso Butter             Pickled Scarlet Turnips and Carrots             Sautéed Broccoli Rabe with Garlic             Rutabaga and Apple Bisque             Roasted Rutabaga Batons with Caraway and Smoked Paprika             Winter Stew of Braised Rutabagas with Carrots, Potatoes, and Parsley Sauce               Finely Shaved Radish, Turnip, and Carrot Salad with Hard Cheese and Spicy Greens             Spring Garden Hodgepodge of Radishes, Leeks, and PeasDepending . . .             Radish Top Soup with Lemon and Yogurt               Kohlrabi Salad with Green Onions, Parsley, and Frizzy Mustard Greens             Steamed Kohlrabi Rounds with Lemon and Chives             Kohlrabi Slaw with Creamy Herb and Avocado Dressing             Horseradish Cream             Cress-Flavored Cream Cheese with Nasturtium Petals             Watercress Sauce with Thick Yogurt             Wilted Arugula and Seared Mushroom Salad with Manchego Cheese   chapter six The Nightshade Family               Potato Soup: One and Many             Fingerling Potatoes Browned in Sage- and Rosemary-Infused Ghee             First-of-the-Season Fingerling Potatoes with Fines Herbes             Yellow-Fleshed Potatoes with Sorrel Sauce             Potato Cakes with Red Chile Molido               Red Chile Paste             Grilled Pepper Relish             McFarlin’s Pepper Sauce             Romesco Sauce             Pimientos Stuffed with Herb-Laced Cheese             Chilled Avocado Soup with Poblano Chile and Pepitas             Sautéed Shishito Peppers: Summer’s Best New Bite             Smoky Roasted Pepper Salad with Tomatoes and Lemon             Halloumi with Seared Red Peppers, Olives, and Capers             Jimmy Nardello Frying Peppers with Onion             Griddled Eggplant RoundsEggplant Tartines             Spheres of Eggplant with a Crispy Coat             Small Plate of Grilled Eggplant with Tahini-Yogurt Sauce and Pomegranate Molasses             Slender Eggplant with Miso Sauce             Roasted Eggplant Salad with Tomatoes and Capers             Eggplant Gratin in Parmesan Custard             Eggplant, Tomato, and Zucchini Gratin               Tomato and Cilantro Soup with Black Quinoa             Tomato and Celery Salad with Cumin, Cilantro, and Avocado             Beefsteak Tomatoes Baked with Feta Cheese and Marjoram             Nutty-Seedy Whole Wheat Toast with Ricotta and Tomatoes             Comforting Tomatoes in Cream with Bread Crumbs and Smoked Salt             Fried Green Tomato Frittata             Damaged Goods Gratin of Tomatoes, Eggplant, and Chard             A Fresh Tomato Relish             Salt-Roasted Tomatoes             Simplest Summer Tomato Sauce     chapter seven The Goosefoot and Amaranth Families               Open-Faced Sandwich of Spinach, Caramelized Onions, and Roasted Peppers             Spinach Crowns with Sesame-Miso Sauce             Supper Spinach             Rice with Spinach, Lemon, Feta, and Pistachios               Quelites with Onion and Chile             Quelites, Mushrooms, and Tortilla Budin             Steamed Beets             Steamed, Then Roasted or Panfried Beets             A Fine Dice of Chioggia Beets and Red Endive with Meyer Lemon and Shallot Vinaigrette             Grated Raw Beet Salad with Star Anise             Chilled Beet Soup with Purslane Salad and Sorrel Sauce with Yogurt             Seared Beets with Walnuts over Wilted Kale with Micro Greens               Sautéed Rainbow Chard with the Stems             Chard Stems with Sesame-Yogurt Sauce and Black Sesame Seeds             Chard Soup with Cumin, Cilantro, and Lime             Chard, Ricotta, and Saffron Cakes             Basic Quinoa             Cucumber Soup with Yogurt and Red Quinoa             Black Quinoa Salad with Lemon, Avocado, and Pistachios             Summer Quinoa Cakes with Beet Greens and Beet Salad            Soft Corn Tacos with String Cheese and Epazote chapter eight The (Former) Lily Family               Caramelized Sweet Onions             Pan-Griddled Red Onions             Sweet-and-Sour Cipollini, Small Red Onions, and Shallots with Raisins             Torpedo Onion and Sweet Pepper Tian             Pearl Onions Braised in Cider with Apples, Rosemary, and Juniper             Mushrooms Stuffed with Caramelized Onions and Blue Cheese             A Fragrant Onion Tart             Grilled Onions with Cinnamon Butter             Young Leeks with Oranges and Pistachios             Leek and Fennel Soup with Garlic Scapes and Chives             Braised Leeks with Lovage and Lemon             Chive and Saffron Crepes             Ramped Up Spinach Soup with Lovage and Sorrel             Supper Eggs with Ramps             Braised Ramps and Asparagus             Mortar and Pestle Garlic             Garlic Scape and Walnut Pesto             Mashed Potatoes with Black Garlic, Ghee, and Shallots             Asparagus with Salsa Verde and Scarlet Onions             Roasted Asparagus with Chopped Egg, Torn Bread, and Red Wine Vinegar             Griddled Asparagus with Tarragon Butter             Asparagus and Leek Flan             Asparagus and Fava Bean Salad   chapter nine The Cucurbit Family               Roasted Squash Seeds            Winter Squash Soup with Red Chile and Mint             Butternut Squash Soup with Coconut Milk, Miso, and Lime             Winter Squash Puree with Tahini, Green Onions, and Black Sesame Seeds             Roasted Winter Squash with Parsley, Sage, and Rosemary             Winter Squash Wedges or Rounds with Gorgonzola Butter and Crushed Walnuts             Zucchini Logs Stewed in Olive Oil with Onions and Chard             Sautéed Zucchini with Mint, Basil, and Pine Nuts             Griddled Scallop Squash             Summer Squash Tartines with Rosemary and Lemon             Ann’s Squash Blossom Frittata             Roasted Delicata Squash Half Rounds with Dukkah and Tahini-Yogurt Sauce             Roasted Spaghetti Squash with Winter Tomato Sauce            Melon and Cucumber Salad with Black Pepper and Mint             Cucumber-Lovage Sandwich with Sweet Onion             Lazy Cucumber and Onion Pickle   chapter ten The Grass Family               Simmered Spelt and Other Large Grains             Grain, Herb, and Buttermilk Soup for Hot, Hot Days             Farro and White Bean Soup with Savoy Cabbage             Frikeh with Cucumbers, Lovage, and Yogurt               Oat Groats             Breakfast Oat Pudding with Raisins, Honey, and Toasted Almonds             Chewy Oat and Maple Pancakes            Quick Bread of Rye, Emmer, and Corn             Rye-Honey Cake with Five-Spice Powder and Dates             Toasted Millet “Polenta”             Golden Millet Cakes             Millet Cakes with Tomato Sauce            Soft Millet for Breakfast or Supper             Barley Tea             Toasted Barley and Burdock with Dried Trumpet Mushrooms             Creamy Barley Soup with Mushrooms and Leeks             Corn off and on the Cob             Corn Simmered in Coconut Milk with Thai Basil             Corn Cookies with Almonds and Raisins             Buttermilk Skillet Corn Bread with Heirloom Flint Cornmeal             Brown Rice with Burdock, Black Sesame, and Toasted Fennel Seeds             Black Rice             Black Rice with Coconut Milk and Egyptian Onions             Collard Leaf Rolls with Black Rice in a Vegetable-Coconut Broth             Black Rice with Wilted Red Cabbage, Yellow Peppers, and Aniseeds             Pea, Dill, and Rice Salad with Lemon Zest            Native Wild Rice             Native Wild Rice with Celery Root and Celery Leaves             Savory Wild Rice Crepe-Cakes   chapter eleven The Legume Family               Pea, Leek, and Sorrel Soup, Hot or Chilled             Peas in Butter Lettuce             Snow Peas with Sesame Oil, Tarragon, and Toasted Sesame Seeds             Peas with Baked Ricotta and Bread Crumbs               Fava, or Yellow Split Pea Spread             Green Pea Fritters with Herb-Laced Crème Fraîche             Shelling Pea, Corn, and Squash Ragout            Black-Eyed Peas on Rice with Tahini-Yogurt Sauce and Smoked Salt             Roasted Green Peanuts in the Shell             Peanut and Sweet Potato Soup             Peanut Sauce Made with Whole Peanuts             Peanut Butter Cookies Studded with Salted Roasted Peanuts             Golden Beets with Fava Beans and Mint             Fava Bean Hummus with Cumin                 Lentils             Pardina Lentils with Smoked Salt            Lentils with Garlicky Walnuts, Parsley, and Cream             Red Lentil Soup with Amaranth Greens             Beluga Lentil Salad with Cucumbers, Purslane and Green Coriander Buds             Red Lentil and Coconut Soup with Black Rice, Turmeric, and Greens             Green Lentil Soup with Plenty of Leaves, Herbs, and Spices             Soy-Braised Tofu with Five-Spice Powder             Panfried Tempeh with Trimmings             Salad Dressing with Shiro Miso and Sesame               White Bean and Fennel Salad             Pot Beans with Epazote and Corn Tortillas             Rio Zape Beans with Salt-Roasted Tomatoes               Tepary Bean Puree with Toasted Cumin and Mexican Oregano             Tepary Bean Gratin             Blue Lake Beans with Shallots, Pistachios, and Marjoram             Sultan’s Green or Golden Crescent Beans with Basil Puree             Rattlesnake Beans or Haricots Verts with Sun Gold Tomatoes, Shallots, and Olives               Chickpea and Tomato Soup with Garlic-Rubbed Bread and Beet Greens             Crushed Chickpeas with Sage             Crispy Chickpea Triangles             Chickpea Fries with Smoked Paprika Mayonnaise             Hummus   chapter twelve The Morning Glory Family               Sweet Potatoes with White Miso Ginger Sauce             Asian Sweet Potatoes with Coconut Butter             Japanese Sweet Potato Soup with Rosemary and Thyme             Sweet Potato Flan with Maple Yogurt and Caramel Pecans

Excerpt From Book

Introduction   It started with a carrot that had gone on in its second year to make a beautiful lacy umbel of a flower. I was enchanted and began to notice other lacy flowers in my garden that looked similar—parsley, fennel, cilantro, anise, as well as Queen Anne’s lace on a roadside—they are all members of the same plant family, as it turned out. Similarly, small daisy-like flowers, whether blue, yellow, orange, enormous or very small, bloomed on lettuce that had gone to seed as well as on wild chicories, the Jerusalem artichokes, and, of course, the sunflowers themselves. Were they related? They were, it turns out. And did edible members of this group somehow share culinary characteristics as well? Often they did. That led me to ask, What are the plant families that provide us with the vegetables we eat often, what characteristics do their members share, and what are their stories?     Cauliflower with Saffron, Pepper Flakes, Plenty of Parsley, and Pasta For 4 I love this approach to cauliflower. In fact, I’d say it’s my favorite way to cook it. It’s golden, aromatic, and lively in the mouth. It’s good alone and very good spooned over pasta shells, which catch the smaller bits of the vegetable. Even a small cauliflower can be surprisingly dense, weighing a pound and yielding 4 cups florets.   1 cauliflower (about 11/2 pounds), broken into small florets, the core diced 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for tossing the pasta 1 onion, finely diced 2 pinches of saffron threads 1 large clove garlic, minced Scant 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes 4 tablespoons finely chopped parsley Sea salt 8 ounces pasta shells, snails or other shapes Grated aged cheese or crumbled feta cheese (optional) Steam the cauliflower florets and core over boiling water for about 3 minutes. Taste a piece. It should be on the verge of tenderness and not quite fully cooked. Set it aside. Bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta. Heat the oil in a wide skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and saffron and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is soft, 6 minutes or so. The steam will activate the saffron so that it stains and flavors the onion. Add the garlic, pepper flakes, and a few pinches of the parsley, give them a stir, and then add the cauliflower. Toss the cauliflower to coat it with the seasonings, add 1/2 cup water, and cook over medium heat until the cauliflower is tender, just a few minutes. Season with salt, toss with half of the remaining parsley, and keep warm. While the cauliflower is cooking, cook the pasta in the boiling water seasoned with salt until al dente. Drain, transfer to a warmed bowl, and toss with a few tablespoons of oil and the remaining parsley. Taste for salt, then spoon the cauliflower over the pasta, wiggle some of it into the pasta crevices, grate the cheese on top, and serve. With Shrimp: When wild Gulf shrimp are in season, take advantage of their sweet goodness. Peel 1 pound shrimp, then sauté them over high heat in olive oil until pink and firm, after 5 minutes or so. Toss them with chopped garlic and parsley and divide them among the individual pasta plates or heap them over the top of the communal dish. Omit the cheese.